[FR] Cet article sera consacré à notre week-end à Nikkô (日光) où nous sommes partis en Juin dernier avec mon copain. Située au nord de Tokyo, c'est une ville inscrite "World Heritage", car ville totalement historique ! Depuis chez nous, il nous a fallu à peu près 3heures de train pour y arriver (Depuis Omiya prendre la Tobu Noda Line jusqu'a Kasukabe et changer pour la Tobu Nikko Line ± 1,500¥) , le temps passe assez vite, surtout quand on est entouré de petits vieux japonais qui vous tiennent la conversation même si on se comprend pas toujours !
[EN] I am taking some time to catch up with you guys because I am quite late with some articles. This article will be about our weekend that we have spent in Nikko (日光) with my boyfriend, last June. Located in North Tokyo, it's a part of the "World Heritage" as it has a strong historical background. From our place it took about 3 hours (From Omiya, take the Tobu Noda Line until Kasukabe then change train for the Tobu Nikko Line to Tobu Nikko Station ± 1,500¥), time passes pretty fast especially when there are lots of old and funny Japanese people trying to make the conversation !
[FR] Comme nous sommes en Juin, nous sommes partis en pleine saison des pluies mais ne nous plaignions pas, nous étions à la campagne/montagne et ça, quand on habite à Tokyo, ça n'a pas de prix et ça fait du bien de respirer un peu d'air pur. Au premier regard tout semble vieux, et il n'y pas de buildings. La station de Nikkô ressemble à un grand chalet de montagne. Il était trop tôt pour aller déposer nos affaires au ryokan que nous avions réservé alors on a tout laissé dans un casier à la gare et sommes partis en découverte de la ville. Nous remontons l'allée principale, jusqu'au Pont Shin-kyô (神橋), littéralement "pont sacré", il marque l'entrée vers les temples, et il appartient au Futarasan-Jinja (二荒山神社). La forme actuelle du pont a été construite en 1636, et sa traversée n'était réservée que aux impériaux, mais depuis 1973 le pont est ouvert au public (300¥). La légende raconte que le moine Shôdo et ses disciples étaient en chemin pour monter au sommet du mont Nantai mais au moment de traverser la rivière, celle-ci était en crue, et il était impossible d'aller de l'autre côté. Le moine pria alors et un dieu apparu, il avait 2 serpents autour des bras et lui dit qu'il les laisserait traverser. C'est alors que les 2 serpents se déployèrent, afin de former un pont arc-en-ciel , laissant le moine et ses disciples traverser afin de rejoindre l'autre rive.
[EN] As we went there in June, it was in the middle of the rain season, but we were in the countryside, surrounded by trees, and when you live in Tokyo, nothing is better than breathing pure air. At first, it doesn't seem to be an awesome place, there's nothing much around Tobu-Nikko station, which, by the way, looks like a mountain cabin. It was too soon to drop our stuff at the ryokan we booked, so we just used the lockers available (in small, medium and big sizes) at the station. We decided to walk along the main street until the Shin-kyô bridge (神橋), which means "sacred bridge", and it marks the entrance of the city's temples and it belongs to Futarasan-Jinja temple (二荒山神社). The actual bridge was built in 1636 but its crossing was only reserved to the imperials, but it's open to the public since 1973 (300¥). According to the legend, the priest Shôdo and his disciples were on their way to the top of Mount Nantai, but when the moment had came to cross the river, it was impossible so they couldn't reach the other side. Shôdo prayed and a god appeared having 2 snakes around his arms. Then he released them that transformed into a rainbow bridge, letting Shôdo and his disciples cross the river.
[EN] As we went there in June, it was in the middle of the rain season, but we were in the countryside, surrounded by trees, and when you live in Tokyo, nothing is better than breathing pure air. At first, it doesn't seem to be an awesome place, there's nothing much around Tobu-Nikko station, which, by the way, looks like a mountain cabin. It was too soon to drop our stuff at the ryokan we booked, so we just used the lockers available (in small, medium and big sizes) at the station. We decided to walk along the main street until the Shin-kyô bridge (神橋), which means "sacred bridge", and it marks the entrance of the city's temples and it belongs to Futarasan-Jinja temple (二荒山神社). The actual bridge was built in 1636 but its crossing was only reserved to the imperials, but it's open to the public since 1973 (300¥). According to the legend, the priest Shôdo and his disciples were on their way to the top of Mount Nantai, but when the moment had came to cross the river, it was impossible so they couldn't reach the other side. Shôdo prayed and a god appeared having 2 snakes around his arms. Then he released them that transformed into a rainbow bridge, letting Shôdo and his disciples cross the river.
[FR] Nous étions en route vers le temple Tosho-gu (東照宮), quand il s'est mis a pleuvoir des trombes d'eau, genre d'un coup comme ça sans prévenir, du coup nous nous sommes arrêtés pour manger quelque chose de bien chaud, car contrairement à Tokyo où il faisait bon malgré la saison des pluies, à Nikkô on s'est vraiment pelés ! Nous avons pu découvrir la spécialité locale : le yuba tofu (湯葉豆腐) qui est en fait du tofu très étiré et replié en cylindre empilant de très fines couches de tofu, c'est un vrai régal, un petit peu sucré c'est délicieux !
[EN] We were on our way to the Tosho-gu shrine (東照宮) when it started to rain like crazy so we just stopped to have lunch and eat something that could warm us up because it was also pretty cold. We discovered the local speciality "Yuba Tofu" (湯葉豆腐), which is a really fine tofu folded as a cylinder, it's amazingly tasty !
[EN] We were on our way to the Tosho-gu shrine (東照宮) when it started to rain like crazy so we just stopped to have lunch and eat something that could warm us up because it was also pretty cold. We discovered the local speciality "Yuba Tofu" (湯葉豆腐), which is a really fine tofu folded as a cylinder, it's amazingly tasty !
[FR] Après la grosse averse, il s'est arrêté de pleuvoir et nous avons pu visiter ce fameux temple. Le Tosho-gu (東照宮) est un temple parmi d'autres ayant le même nom à travers le Japon (un autre se trouve également à Tokyo, dans le parc de Ueno), mais celui-ci est le plus important et le plus visité. Il est dédié a Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川 家康) le fondateur du clan Tokugawa, ayant régné sur le Japon pendant près de 250 ans. C'est un temple shinto, dont la construction débuta en 1617, pendant que le fils de Ieyasu était au pouvoir. Il fut agrandit quand le fils de celui-ci régnait (le petit-fils de Ieyasu donc! Compliqué tout ça!). C'est un temple vieux, et ça ce voit, il y a d'ailleurs en ce moment des travaux de rénovation entrepris jusqu'en 2019. Vieux certes mais il en jette ! A ne pas rater !
[EN] After our lunch, it stopped raining so we could start the visit of the Tosho-gu shrine (東照宮). There are many temples named after this one through all Japan (for example there's one in Ueno Park in Tokyo), but this one is the biggest and the most visited one. It's dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川 家康), founder of Tokugawa clan that has ruled over 250 year. It's a shinto temple, its building started in 1617 while Ieyasu's son was ruling. It was enlarged when Ieyasu's grandson was ruling (complicated!). It's a really old temple, at this moment it's under renovation until 2019, but don't hesitate to go because it totally worths the trip !
[EN] 200 meters away from there stands the Futarasan-Jinja (二荒山神社). Founded by priest Shodo in 782 (He brought Buddhism in Nikkô), it's a shinto temple that was build to celebrate the gods of the mountains around the area this is why there are other temples named after this ones on top of certain mounts around and also near the Chuzenji lake, located on the other side of Nikko.
[EN] And to finish this amazing day, the last temple we visited was the Taiyuinbyo (大院廟) which is the tomb of Ieyasu Tokugawa's grandson, 3rd shogun of the clan. It's built on the same plan but it's smaller and less decorated. It's a very quiet place, and less visited by the tourists and more anjoyable (especially when it rains, knowing that each Japanese person has an umbrella and there are a lot of Japanese people so I'll let you guess how many umbrella are walking around lol), we also had the chance to hear the story in the Shogun room (my boyfriend translated most of it to me).
[EN] After our lunch, it stopped raining so we could start the visit of the Tosho-gu shrine (東照宮). There are many temples named after this one through all Japan (for example there's one in Ueno Park in Tokyo), but this one is the biggest and the most visited one. It's dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川 家康), founder of Tokugawa clan that has ruled over 250 year. It's a shinto temple, its building started in 1617 while Ieyasu's son was ruling. It was enlarged when Ieyasu's grandson was ruling (complicated!). It's a really old temple, at this moment it's under renovation until 2019, but don't hesitate to go because it totally worths the trip !
[FR] A quelques 200m de là se trouve le Futarasan-Jinja (二荒山神社), temple auquel appartient le pont Shinkyo. Il a été fondé par le moine bouddhiste Shodo en 782 (qui de fait apporta les connaissances bouddhistes à Nikkô), c'est un temple shinto construit afin de vénérer les dieux des montagnes avoisinantes. On retrouve quelques autres temples du même nom au sommet de l'une d'elles et près du lac Chuzenji (de l'autre côté de Nikkô).
[EN] 200 meters away from there stands the Futarasan-Jinja (二荒山神社). Founded by priest Shodo in 782 (He brought Buddhism in Nikkô), it's a shinto temple that was build to celebrate the gods of the mountains around the area this is why there are other temples named after this ones on top of certain mounts around and also near the Chuzenji lake, located on the other side of Nikko.
[FR] Et enfin pour finir cette journée, le dernier temple fut le Taiyuinbyo (大院廟) qui est la mausolée du petit-fils de Ieyasu Tokugawa, troisième shogun du clan. Il est construit sur le même plan que la mausolée de son grand-père, mais est volontairement plus petit et plus modeste dans les décorations. C'est un temple très calme et un peu moins visité par les touristes alors on l'apprécie beaucoup plus (surtout par jour de pluie ou chaque japonais possède un parapluie, et quand il y a beaucoup de japonais, il y a beaucoup de parapluies), nous avons même une droit à un explication de la salle du shogun (mon copain à pu me traduire le gros de l'histoire).
[EN] And to finish this amazing day, the last temple we visited was the Taiyuinbyo (大院廟) which is the tomb of Ieyasu Tokugawa's grandson, 3rd shogun of the clan. It's built on the same plan but it's smaller and less decorated. It's a very quiet place, and less visited by the tourists and more anjoyable (especially when it rains, knowing that each Japanese person has an umbrella and there are a lot of Japanese people so I'll let you guess how many umbrella are walking around lol), we also had the chance to hear the story in the Shogun room (my boyfriend translated most of it to me).
[FR] Après cette dernière visite, nous décidons de nous rendre au ryokan qui se trouvait a quelques minutes à pieds de la station. Nous avions aussi réservé le diner servi a 18h et en attendant nous avons juste flemmardé dans la chambre en buvant du thé et en profitant de la douche bien chaude. Et le diner MONDIEUMOTHERUCKER : pour un peu plus de 15€ on a eu un repas du feu de dieu, servi par des gens adorables et plus qu'appréciables, dans une ancienne maison japonaise au charme fou.
"Rindou no ie" りんどうの家
Tokorono 1462, Nikko 321-1421, Japon
7,000¥/nuit pour 2 personnes
1,800¥/personne pour le diner
7,000¥/nuit pour 2 personnes
1,800¥/personne pour le diner
[EN] After this last visit, we decided to get to the ryokan, located few minutes away from Tobu Nikko Station. Also I had booked the diner, that was served at 6:00pm, until then we just chilled in our room, while drinking some great tea. And the diner OMFGMOTHERFUCKER : for a little bit more than 15€, we had the most amazing dinner I ever had in Japan, served by adorable people, in a traditional and very well maintained Japanese house and guys I totally recommend it to you if you ever go to Nikko, it's the best place to go !
"Rindou no ie" りんどうの家
Tokorono 1462, Nikko 321-1421, Japan
7,000¥/night for 2 people
1,800¥/person for the dinner
je veux y aller, surtout dans la guesthouse pour manger autant, c'est superbe.
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